What are the rules for new Olympic sport? When are the gold medal matches? When is Team GB star Shauna Coxsey in action?

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What are the rules for new Olympic sport? When are the gold medal matches? When is Team GB star Shauna Coxsey in action?


Sport climbing will make its Olympic debut in Tokyo as the world’s best climbers go for gold.

The sport’s addition to the Games in Tokyo is arguably one of the most deserved.

Getty

Sport climbing is set to make its Olympic debut in Tokyo

The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) website says the sport is enjoying an increase in popularity, with an estimated 25 million people across the world climbing regularly.

It has reached a true global audience in recent years and will now be battled out on the biggest stage of all – the Olympics.

Team GB has a real chance of a medal with Shauna Coxsey eyeing glory.

Sport climbing at Tokyo 2020

The event will be held at the Aomi Urban Sports Park and consists of three disciplines: speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing.

In speed climbing, two athletes secure themselves to ropes and race each other on a fixed route to the top of a 15-meter high wall. 

Shauna Coxsey is Team GB’s sole representative in the sport climbing

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Shauna Coxsey is Team GB’s sole representative in the sport climbing

In bouldering, climbers scale as many fixed routes on a 4m wall as possible within four minutes — without safety ropes.

In lead climbing, athletes will try to climb as high as they can on a 15-meter high wall within 6 minutes and if two people reach the same height, whoever did it fastest wins.

Each athlete will compete in the three disciplines meaning only two golds are up for grabs.

The scores will be calculated by multiplying of each competitor’s placement in the three disciplines and the climber with the lowest overall score wins.

Sport climbing: The schedule

All times BST

Tuesday, 3rd August

  • 09:00-14:40 Men’s Combined Qualification – Speed
  • 09:00-14:40 Men’s Combined Qualification – Bouldering
  • 09:00-14:40 Men’s Combined Qualification – Lead

Wednesday, 4th August

  • 09:00-14:40 Women’s Combined Qualification – Speed
  • 09:00-14:40 Women’s Combined Qualification – Bouldering
  • 09:00-14:40 Women’s Combined Qualification – Lead

Thursday, 5th August

  • 09:00-14:40 Men’s Combined Final – Speed
  • 09:00-14:40 Men’s Combined Final – Bouldering
  • 09:00-14:40 Men’s Combined Final – Lead

Friday, 6th August

  • 09:00-14:40 Women’s Combined Final – Speed
  • 09:00-14:40 Women’s Combined Final – Bouldering
  • 09:00-14:40 Women’s Combined Final – Lead

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Sport climbing: Team GB star

Shauna Coxsey is Team GB’s sole representative in the sport climbing

She qualified for Tokyo by winning bouldering and combined bronze medals at the 2019 World Championship.

The 28-tear-old from Cheshire is already the UK’s most successful competition climber.

She has won two World Cup titles and a host of other top-level medals.

Coxsey’s main strength is in the bouldering but she has been improving her all-round game in recent years in preparation for the Games.

It has been a great start to Tokyo 2020 for Team GB

Getty

It has been a great start to Tokyo 2020 for Team GB

After qualifying for the Olympics, Coxsey said: “I’m on the plane! I am actually on the way to the Tokyo Olympic Games where Sport Climbing will make its Olympic debut.

“It’s all starting to sink in. This is a monumental moment for our sport. It’s a true privilege to be on the way to Tokyo and to play a small part.

“Thinking back over my time as a competitive climber, I have an overwhelming sense of gratitude. I never could have even dreamed to be where I am now, to have achieved the things that I have.

“Thank you so so much to all of you who have sent me kind messages and supported me! It means the world! You are all truly wonderful!”

Sport climbing: Where can I watch it?

The BBC are showing the Tokyo Olympics in the UK so fans can watch Coxsey and co for free live on BBC One and the BBC iPlayer.   

Eurosport have the main rights for Europe and a stream can be watched through their channels with a paid subscription.

talkSPORT will have regular updates from Tokyo throughout the Games while talkSPORT.com will also bring you all the action and reaction from Japan.





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